SEWING GUIDE - THE PLEATED SHIRT

DIFFICULTY LEVELS:

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REQUIRED MATERIALS

_ Recommended fabric length: 1.60 m (XS/34 to M/38) to 1.80 m (L/40 to XXL/46) depending on the chosen size. Recommended fabric type: poplin, chambray, technosilk, cotton canvas, or thin denim.
_ 50 cm of white fusible interfacing, preferably woven.
_ 1 spool of thread in the color of your choice, preferably 100% cotton.
_ 9 buttons measuring 1.5 cm of your choice.
_ Set of universal machine needles 80.

This is a recommendation for cutting your patterns, however, the layout may vary depending on the chosen size or the width of your fabric.

CHOOSE YOUR SIZE

Measure yourself and choose the appropriate size. If you are between two sizes, choose the larger size in case your fabric shrinks when washed or in case of unforeseen circumstances. Readjust the length of your patterns if necessary. For any questions, please contact us: specimenstudio@outlook.com

PREPARING YOUR FABRIC

Before cutting your fabric, you should always prepare it to avoid shrinkage, distortion, or flaws after washing. Why? A new fabric can change (size, shape, color). Preparing it therefore guarantees a garment that is the correct size and well-cut.

Essential steps:
_Wash the fabric as you would wash the final garment.
_Dry, use the same drying method planned (air dry or tumble dry).
_Iron, a smooth fabric allows for precise cutting.
_Check the grainline, ensure the fabric is properly aligned to avoid distortion.

Adapt according to the fabric:
_Jersey: lay flat to rest.
_Fluid fabric: starching possible.
_Fragile fabric: gentle wash.


To remember, properly preparing your fabric allows you to:
_Avoid unpleasant surprises.
_Obtain a clean cut.
_Ensure a beautiful final result.


In summary: preparing your fabric guarantees the success of your sewing project. Please note, there is no need to wash interfacing or fusible fabric before your project.

 

ASSEMBLY PLAN --> 1. BODICE ASSEMBLY - 30/45 MIN

Before you begin!! Mark all reference points on your pieces and notch the patterns before detaching them. Overlock the edges if necessary.

  • Step n° 1_ Form and sew the bust darts on the fronts (n°1). Press the darts downwards towards the bottom of the garment.
  • Step n°2_ Pin the front and back right sides together. Stitch the shoulders at 1 cm, then the sides.
  •  Step n°3_ Open and press all seams flat.

 

2. SLEEVE ASSEMBLY - 60 MIN

  • Step n° 1_ To absorb the ease, stitch a topstitch 0.5 cm from the edge on the sleeve head (without backstitch, long stitch).
  • Step n°2_ Pull a thread to slightly gather (about 1 cm on each side). Distribute the gathers across the entire sleeve head and secure with pins.
  • Step n°3_ Assemble the cuff then the elbow line at 1 cm. Press the seams, then turn the sleeve right side out.
  • Step n°4_ Assemble the sleeve to the bodice, right sides together, matching the notches. Stitch at 1 cm all around.
  • Step n°5_ Remove the gathering thread (ease) then press the sleeve (ideally with a sleeve board).

 

 

3. PREPARE THE PLEATS - 60 MIN

Before you begin!! Mark all reference points on your pieces and notch the patterns before detaching them. Overlock the edges if necessary.

  • Step n° 1_ Form the pleats. Transfer the markings using the template. Form and pin the pleats, then press lightly.
  • Step n°2_ Stitch a tuck (0.2 cm) for 10 cm at the top of each pleat to secure them.
  • Step n°3_ Assemble the left and right yokes. Then attach the yoke to the bodice, right sides together, at 1 cm. Press and open the seam (or serge).
 

Attention!! This model has 32 pleats in total (16 on each side), distributed over two symmetrical yokes. The template helps you form the pleats, but you need to calculate the necessary fabric width. Calculation of the fabric width (example size 38) ->
1. Measure the width of the bottom of the pattern (n°1 and 2): 49.78 cm
2. Divide by 16 (number of pleats) = 3.11 cm
3. Multiply by 2 (value of one pleat) = 6.22 cm
4. Multiply by 16 (number of pleats on one side) = 99.52 cm
5. Add the base width: 49.78 + 99.52 ≈ 150 cm and add seam allowances + 2 cm

Total: approximately 152 cm of fabric for one side. Note: repeat this calculation for each size to adapt the necessary fabric quantity.

 

 

 

4. BUTTON PLACKET ASSEMBLY - 90 MIN

  • Step n° 1_ Fuse the plackets with an iron (15 to 30 seconds without moving).
  • Step n°2_ Fold the placket in half. Sew one side to the bodice, right sides together, at 1 cm. Press.
  • Step n°3_ Sew the bottom of the placket, right sides together, at 1 cm. Trim the corner, turn right side out, and form a neat corner using a pin.
  • Step n°4_ Fold back the seam allowance (1 cm) on the other side of the placket, pin, then stitch along the edge. Topstitch the placket on the front. (see video tutorial).
  • Step n°5_ Depending on your sewing machine's options, prepare the machine to sew buttonholes. Mark the reference points. Make buttonholes on the right side. Sew the buttons on the left side.

 

 

5. COLLAR ASSEMBLY - 45 MIN

Before you begin!! Mark all reference points on your pieces and notch the patterns before detaching them. Overlock the edges if necessary.

  • Step n° 1_ Fuse the undercollar with an iron (15 to 30 seconds without moving).
  • Step n°2_ Assemble the two collar pieces at 0.5 cm (top of the collar). Trim the corners, turn right side out, and form neat corners using a pin.
  • Step n°3_ Sew the inside of the collar to the bodice, right sides together, aligning the notches. Fold back the outer edge at 1 cm, pin, then topstitch along the edge at 2 mm.
  • Step n°4_ Depending on your machine's options, make the buttonhole and sew on the collar button.

 

6. SEWING A ROLLED HEM - 30 MIN

  • Step n° 1_ Pre-press with an iron, on the wrong side, the 1 cm seam allowance of the pleat and sleeve hems.
  • Step n°2_ Stitch close to the edge of this fold. And trim all along the seam.
  • Step n°3_ Fold back 3 mm, stitch on the first seam. Press, forming your pleats again, and your project is finished! Congratulations!


COMPLETE VIDEO TUTORIAL PLAYLIST: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL46mYrulAOUAzlFZpQA-EQ2_Svw_Idgd_

Each technique in this pattern is accompanied by a video tutorial, available for free on our YouTube channel (@specimenstudi0). You will find the link and QR code for the dedicated playlist below. The explanations are intentionally concise, but each step is detailed in video to help you progress in sewing. If you encounter any difficulties, you can contact us: Instagram @specimenstudi0 / Email: specimenstudio@outlook.com. We are also available to listen to your feedback to improve our booklets and patterns. Do not hesitate to share your comments and suggestions.

REVIEWS & IMPROVEMENT:

In order to improve our sewing manuals/booklets, we are always attentive to our customers to perfect our patterns and our method. We want to offer the best possible pattern to our customers and provide a relaxing moment by making sewing simple for beginners. That is why if you wish, we would be delighted to hear your opinion and suggestions to improve our booklets. If you encounter any difficulties, do not hesitate to contact us via our Instagram or by email: specimenstudio@outlook.com.